Alton Brown ruined my fried chicken. [blog]

[Sean Malone]

I was going to piece out a chicken and toss it on the grill but a storm passed through and my wife said “why don’t you fry it?”. “Fried chicken?” I’ve made fried chicken about three times in my life and all three times it was mediocre at best.

Now, of course this will sound cliché, but my mother makes the best fried chicken I’ve ever had. Always has. No secret ingredients, no special pans or methods just a sixth sense when it comes to temperature and time.

So, I say OK, why not. Making ‘moms’ fried chicken has always been a goal of mine. I pull up a recipe (just to get the temps and times) and the first one on google was an Alton Brown simple recipe. Very basic, just coat your pieces in a spice mixture, dredge in flour and fry it 10 minutes per side. Ok, so I mix up his spice mixture (I added my favorite Tony Chachere’s seasoning, salt free version), and flour and into the 12inch cast iron skillet with the perfect amount of vegetable oil at exactly 350 degree just like Alton recommends. 20 minutes later I drained the pieces on elevated racks not paper towels just like Alton instructed and we marveled at how absolutely scrouptous the chicken looked.

So we sit down to eat and the three of us all eagerly tear into the chicken only to find that it is so terribly salty that we all practically spit it out in unison. I love salt. I eat popcorn with my salt. I eat the salt off of pretzels. I’ll even take a swig of pickle juice from time to time (hey,it’s there!) but this chicken was like putting a handful of kosher salt in your mouth.
I pull up the recipe to verify that it said 2 tablespoons of kosher salt for 8 pieces of chicken. Yep, 2 tablespoons.

I kick myself because this actually isn’t the first time Alton Brown has rendered my food inedible. His dry rub recipe for ribs uses WAAAAYYY too much kosher salt. I should have known.

Anyway, I’ve used many of Altons tips to great success throughout the years but just an FYI…if he calls for kosher salt, cut the amount by at LEAST half if not more.

[Andrew Longman]

My brother had the same reaction to his ribs recipe and quickly lost his trust in Alton.

I really enjoyed his show on popcorn this week, but was surprised my how much salt he used and the fact that he cooked the popcorn with salt in the oil, which several other sources say is a no no.

Still, I will always look to Alton for his mixture of history, physics, chemistry and culinary arts.

[Sean Malone]

My brother had the same reaction to his ribs recipe and quickly lost his trust in Alton.

I really enjoyed his show on popcorn this week, but was surprised my how much salt he used and the fact that he cooked the popcorn with salt in the oil, which several other sources say is a no no.

Still, I will always look to Alton for his mixture of history, physics, chemistry and culinary arts.

interesting. Glad to hear I'm not the only one. Coincidently he did a show dedicated entirely to salt which I found to be incredibly interesting. I keep trying to a repeat of it but haven't come across it.

[dando]

What else was inb the rub besides salt? Emeril's Essence seasoning uses the same amout of kosher salt, BTW. It also includes paprika, garlic and onion powder, thyme, oregano, cayenne and black pepper, and it's a good, balanced blend. Did the rub get mixed properly? Are you sure you didn't use too much of the rub or weren't supposed to use it to season the flour instead of the bird? I generally just use a small amount of Emeril's Essence when I make a batch. I've also found that Paula Dean's house seasoning is very good with fried chicken. You use it to season the flour and then batter it in the season flour. I also find that double breading is best for fried chicken. Flour, egg wash, flour again and fry it up as you described. Yum. Pretty easy to make good fried chicken. You might just be out of alignment with the D&D master's passing this week. ;)

http://www.foodnetwork.com/food/recipes/recipe/0,,FOOD_9936_8489,00.html

-Kevin

[extramundane]

interesting. Glad to hear I'm not the only one.

I've not made the chicken (I mean, there's good fried chicken every 6 feet in this state, so why cook it yourself?), but I did find one of his spice rubs (7parts brown sugar to 3 parts kosher salt as the base) to be WAY salty for me. 'Course, I don't use much salt on anything, so I assumed that was part of the problem.

[G.]

was the bird brined? Many (most? All?) frozen birds are brined.

My only experience with brining chickens resulted in a very fast-cooking, very juicy bird that tasted like tender chicken jerky.:shakehead

[Sean Malone]

What else was inb the rub besides salt? Emeril's Essence seasoning uses the same amout of kosher salt, BTW. It also includes paprika, garlic and onion powder, thyme, oregano, cayenne and black pepper, and it's a good, balanced blend. Did the rub get mixed properly? Are you sure you didn't use too much of the rub or weren't supposed to use it to season the flour instead of the bird? I generally just use a small amount of Emeril's Essence when I make a batch. I've also found that Paula Dean's house seasoning is very good with fried chicken. You use it to season the flour and then batter it in the season flour. I also find that double breading is best for fried chicken. Flour, egg wash, flour again and fry it up as you described. Yum. Pretty easy to make good fried chicken. You might just be out of alignment with the D&D master's passing this week. ;)

http://www.foodnetwork.com/food/recipes/recipe/0,,FOOD_9936_8489,00.html

-Kevin

It was just a simple mixture of garlic powder (which I verified three times that I was using garlic powder, not garlic salt), Hungarian paprika and kosher salt. I added a pinch of crushed red pepper and some tony's like i mentioned. I should have just used Tony's salted version and left it at that.

I tried double breading once but it didn't work out for me, I think my oil temp was too high if I recall.

This would have been excellent chicken if it hadn't been so salty.

[Sean Malone]

was the bird brined? Many (most? All?) frozen birds are brined.

My only experience with brining chickens resulted in a very fast-cooking, very juicy bird that tasted like tender chicken jerky.:shakehead

Well, now that you mentioned it, it was a Perdue and the label did say that it was enhanced with chicken stock or something like that. But, in this case, you could literally see the coating of kosher salt. That was diffinitly the cause.
As I was making it I told myself that that is way too much salt but not being much of a fry guy, I thought it would dissolve in the oil.

[dando]

It was just a simple mixture of garlic powder (which I verified three times that I was using garlic powder, not garlic salt), Hungarian paprika and kosher salt. I added a pinch of crushed red pepper and some tony's like i mentioned. I should have just used Tony's salted version and left it at that.

I tried double breading once but it didn't work out for me, I think my oil temp was too high if I recall.

This would have been excellent chicken if it hadn't been so salty.

1:1 ratio b/w the spices? I would have tried a touch of cayenne rather rhan the pimentum weedum (as Emeril would say). Try Emeril's Essence recipe sometime. I always keep some handy and it never seems too salty (when used in moderation as a rub/seasoning). The critical part with frying chicken is to not get the oil too hot (or the flour will burn), and to maintain the temp evenly (don't overcrowd the pan).

I've had Paula's fried chicken @ Lady & Son's in Savannah. :thumbup: If you're ever in Savannah, her place is a must. :thumbup: :thumbup:

http://www.foodnetwork.com/food/recipes/recipe/0,,FOOD_9936_31775,00.html



House Seasoning:
1 cup salt
1/4 cup black pepper
1/4 cup garlic powder

And if you think Alton likes salt.... :eek:

-Kevin

[dando]

Also, I find that when making seasonings or rubs like this, I like to give them a spin in a coffee grinder (I have one just for this purpose). Gets the kosher salt to blend in better.

-Kevin

[anait]

I agree, using the entire mix for just 8 pieces seems a bit much. In Emeril's recipe, he calls for a tablespoon of Essence, total, to be mixed into the 1 cup flour.

Emeril's fried chicken (http://www.foodnetwork.com/food/recipes/recipe/0,,FOOD_9936_23103,00.html?rsrc=like)

Did you skin the chicken pieces? (Sorry if that's an obvious question... :o )

Edit: Alton gives a recipe for a Chicken Rub in his first book, with no salt at all; recommends it for 'seared, grilled, or roasted chicken.'

[G.]

I agree, using the entire mix for just 8 pieces seems a bit much. In Emeril's recipe, he calls for a tablespoon of Essence, total, to be mixed into the 1 cup flour.

Emeril's fried chicken (http://www.foodnetwork.com/food/recipes/recipe/0,,FOOD_9936_23103,00.html?rsrc=like)

Did you skin the chicken pieces? (Sorry if that's an obvious question... :o )

Edit: Alton gives a recipe for a Chicken Rub in his first book, with no salt at all; recommends it for 'seared, grilled, or roasted chicken.'How is it on Canadian wall critter?

[Ankf00]

more proof to my theory that he's a yankee on the inside.

[Elmo T]

Alton Brown has never steered me wrong.

I know there were some typo's in his books... 2 tsp perhaps? The recipe reviews on Food Network site confirm your taste buds though...

[anait]

How is it on Canadian wall critter?

Yeah....no. :D I'll stick with chicken.

[Andrew Longman]

When in doubt about the basics of anything I always return to my baseline sources: Joy of Cooking and NYT Cookbook ("the cookbook of record" :gomer: )

I'm thinking it was a typo. T for t

NYT recepies for fried chicken have ratios of 1 1/2 -2 teaspoons salt to 1 cup flour.

For season mix I've relied on a Paul Prudhomme recommendation for 20 years:

2T salt
1T sweet paprika
2t white pepper
2t onion powder
1 1/2 driied thyme
1 1/2 garlic powder
1t dry mustard
1t cayenne pepper
1t dry basil
1t black pepper
1/2t cumin

I make big batches and use it in gumbo, anything cajun, in BBQ sauce, as a rub, and as a "zest" on everything from fried chicklen to scrambled eggs to grill cheese.

[cameraman]

My wife makes excellent fried chicken. It is the minimalist version. So I ask for her recipe, I'm the baker, she's the chef and I get a typical chef answer:irked:


I use chicken breasts, deboned and no skin/fat on them. Usually smaller pieces work well (usually I cut the giant chicken breasts our agriculture industry generates in half or thirds).
I beat one to two eggs (depends on number of chicken breasts), but usually one egg, and add a little bit of water (maybe a teaspoon) and beat well.
I put flour in a bowl and add salt and ground pepper to it. I just wing the amounts.
Then I put Canola oil in a sauce pan (about 1 inch high, so a smaller pan uses less oil and works just fine) and heat it to about medium heat.
I dredge the chicken breasts in the egg mixture and the flour mixture. And then I cook them in the oil, turning regularly with tongs to get an even golden-brown color. When the temperature of the chicken reaches 160-165, I take it out of the oil and drain it.

That's it.

[dando]

So I ask for her recipe, I'm the baker, she's the chef and I get a typical chef answer:irked:

What's wrong with that answer? There's no real science involved with general cooking unlike baking. I rarely use precise measurements to cook (unless I'm making a sauce or making dressing where the amounts are more critical). You baker types are so anal. ;)

-Kevin

[Warlock!]

I agree, using the entire mix for just 8 pieces seems a bit much.
That's the problem. On the fried chicken episode I believe he mixes the seasonings together in a shaker and coats the pieces liberally, but then he says he unscrews the shaker lid and covers the remainder of the seasoning with wax paper, screwing the lid back on, so it will keep until the next time he uses it. The Food Network has a lousy habit of leaving out details like that... so much so that if I don't see the episode of the recipe I'd like to prepare, I never attempt it with the cliff-notes recipe that Food Network provides.

The rub on the ribs was the same deal... he had leftover...

[Sean Malone]

That's the problem. On the fried chicken episode I believe he mixes the seasonings together in a shaker and coats the pieces liberally, but then he says he unscrews the shaker lid and covers the remainder of the seasoning with wax paper, screwing the lid back on, so it will keep until the next time he uses it. The Food Network has a lousy habit of leaving out details like that... so much so that if I don't see the episode of the recipe I'd like to prepare, I never attempt it with the cliff-notes recipe that Food Network provides.

The rub on the ribs was the same deal... he had leftover...

I think this is spot on. Now that you mention it I've gone to food network to get an Alton recipe and it varies quite a bit from what he did on the show. The standing rib roast comes to mind.

Thanks!!

[oddlycalm]

Warlock is right on the money. It's like two separate recipes, one for the rub and one for the meat, but they lump them in together on the web site. If Alton had made a quart of bbq sauce for the rib recipe they wouldn't bother to tell you not to dump the entire quart on the ribs.

It's a bummer to do all that work and have inedible results, but the vivid memory of it should help keep others out of trouble. Kinda like infamous chipotle chili which I remember vividly. :eek: The "tasted as you go" caveat always in effect and you can generally add more seasoning at the end if you need to.

This is where I normally pimp my friends over at Dizzy Pig (http://www.dizzypigbbq.com/) because I'm addicted to their Swamp Venom rub that I use (varying amounts) in damn near everything. Instead of a pinch of cayenne in the buttermilk for fried chicken I use half dozen shakes of Swamp Venom in the dredge flour. Same mild heat but you get a much broader dimension of flavor. I'm not into hot food, I just want the flavor to be there.

oc

[Wheel-Nut]

That's what you get for using a recipe from a drag racer. :tony:

[cameraman]

What's wrong with that answer? There's no real science involved with general cooking unlike baking. I rarely use precise measurements to cook (unless I'm making a sauce or making dressing where the amounts are more critical). You baker types are so anal. ;)

-Kevin
Who me?:D

I read this just prior to making a 4.7559 mg/ml solution. I work in a world where things are measured in nano-, pico- and femto-moles and 2 µg can be waaaay too much. The idea of just "winging it" makes my brain explode.

[Wheel-Nut]

Approximation is all you need. I like the way he measures the salt.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eK4umRMJlrs

[Andrew Longman]

Approximation is all you need. I like the way he measures the salt.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eK4umRMJlrs

Funny, that doesn't sound or look like Justin Wilson at all. Looks different without the drivers suit :D

I have to be suspicious of any chef who cooks gumbo without getting melted butter, grease and Louisiana Napalm (roux) all over their shirt.

At least that's what I tell the wife when she's complaining about the dirty laundry.

Actually you can tell Justin is not full Cajun. That looks like some weak ass gumbo. One clove garlic? Where's the Cajun Holy Trinity of green pepper, celery and onion? Wine? OK.


Edit: THIS is how you make gumbo. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m5i0AnVvq7U&feature=related

Making a bucket of it at a time is key too. Make friends!!!

[anait]

What's wrong with that answer? There's no real science involved with general cooking unlike baking. I rarely use precise measurements to cook (unless I'm making a sauce or making dressing where the amounts are more critical). You baker types are so anal. ;)

-Kevin

:rofl: You just gotta embrace both sides of the coin, man. (Hm, that's a mixed metaphor, innit...) Mr anait and I are both fly by the seat of our pants chefs, but I have the o.c. baking gene as well. If I ever meet Alton Brown in person, I will thank him profusely for introducing mr anait to the crazy notion that baking is chemistry, and for stating clearly that, no, you cannot change amounts or substitute ingredients all willy nilly and expect your baked goods to turn out... :irked: :D

Speaking of which - I have a boulder birthday cake to turn out tonight. Better get cracking.

[oddlycalm]

At least that's what I tell the wife when she's complaining about the dirty laundry. Sure, but does she ever ask for her canoe paddle back...? :gomer:

Seriously, looks like da kine.:thumbup:

oc

[Andrew Longman]

Sure, but does she ever ask for her canoe paddle back...? :gomer:

Seriously, looks like da kine.:thumbup:

oc

No, but only because I own the canoe paddle in the family. That and I don't share several cooking techniques with her. Some of my methods are just out of bounds for her sensible tastes.

BTW, maybe this is common knowledge I discovered late in life, but DW-40 is a remarkable grease stain remover. Works on even years old laundry stains that have been through the dryer endless times. Saturate the stain, let it sit a few minutes to release the grease and wash with regular detergent. Works every time.

Washing with lubricants fits with my cooking with power tools mentality. :D